El Palo
Malaga, a city known for its rich history, vibrant culture, and diverse neighbourhoods, offers a unique experience in each of its districts.
One such area is El Palo, a charming seaside neighbourhood in the eastern part of the city, renowned for its traditions, beautiful beaches and exquisite seafood cuisine.
Getting to El Palo
To reach El Palo from Malaga city centre, there are two primary options. For those who enjoy walking, you can start at the lighthouse in the harbour and follow the coastal promenade for about six kilometres eastwards until you reach the El Balneario restaurant at Baños del Carmen.
Alternatively, you can take the 8, 11 or 3 bus from the central Avenida de Alameda, which will drop you off directly at Baños del Carmen.
Baños del Carmen is named after a historic spa building established on this site in 1918, which once catered to the high society of the time. Today, visitors can enjoy the beach, the adjoining park, a restaurant, and one of the most stunning sunsets in the city.
Although this is technically in the Pedregalejo neighbourhood, the promenade here seamlessly transitions into El Palo and is a great place to start your exploration.
Malaga’s fishing heritage
Just a few metres beyond Baños del Carmen, you will find yourself in the aforementioned Pedregalejo. Characterised by its small coves and old fishermen’s houses, this is a truly picturesque setting.
The promenade is lined with a variety of dining options, from traditional chiringuito restaurants to modern cocktail bars with sea views. Especially on weekends, locals and tourists alike gather here to enjoy an Aperol or a cool beer while taking in the view of the sea.
However, as you continue towards El Palo, the atmosphere becomes more authentic.
The beach here is dotted with jábegas, traditional boats used initially by the Phoenicians over 3,000 years ago. Today, these boats are primarily used for rowing rather than fishing.
The connection to the sea is deeply ingrained in El Palo. This is highlighted by the annual celebration of the Virgen del Carmen, the patron saint of fishermen, every 16 July.
The best place to enjoy seafood in Malaga
One of the standout features of the area east of Malaga is the fresh seafood, known as pescaíto fresco. Visitors can savour this in the various restaurants and beach bars along the promenades.
The spotlight is on sardine skewers (espetos de sardinas) and fried fish dishes (pescaíto frito). The ‘espetos’ are prepared by skewering the fish on reeds and grilling them over a wood fire, generally in small boats. With a dash of salt and a few turns over the fire, the dish is ready to be served.
One of the most popular seafood spots is Restaurante Antonio, located near the end of the long promenade at El Dedo beach.
Close by is the famous restaurant El Tintero, where singing waiters auction off dishes in a lively atmosphere. El Tintero has been honoured with a “Solete” by the Spanish gastronomic guide Repsol. Despite its popularity among tourists, the fresh fish and unique dining experience make it a worthwhile visit.
Beyond El Palo
For those who wish to continue exploring, just beyond El Tintero is the small El Candado marina. Further along, you’ll reach the Peñón del Cuervo, a large rock formation in the sea. This protected biological enclave is one of the few diving spots where you can still see sunfish.
For the adventurous, you can continue walking along the coast to Rincón de la Victoria. Both El Palo and Rincón de la Victoria are well-connected by bus routes that return to Malaga’s city centre.
Sabine is a German journalist based in Spain and runs cdspress, an agency specialising in content creation (article writing, blogging, and news reporting) for German and Spanish online media and small to medium-sized businesses. Sabine has 20 years of editorial experience, including as editor-in-chief currently of Costa del Sol Online and formerly of SUR deutsche Ausgabe.