Mesón Mariano
Tucked away on Calle Granados in central Malaga, Mesón Mariano has been serving authentic Andalusian cuisine since 1988 and shows no signs of slowing down.
This family-run restaurant is one of those increasingly rare places that hasn’t been swept away by chains or fleeting food trends, and it’s earned recognition from the Academia de Gastronomía de Málaga for keeping things refreshingly traditional.
The owner, Mariano Martín Navas, has spent over five decades in Malaga’s hospitality scene and clearly knows what he’s doing. He still turns up daily to oversee the kitchen, select produce at the market twice weekly and charm regulars at the bar, now alongside his daughter Laura, who helps run front-of-house and admin.
Artichokes, the star dish at Mesón Mariano
The undisputed star of the menu at Mesón Mariano is the artichokes, and they don’t mess about – they prepare around 50 kilos daily.
The menu literally calls them ‘the queen of the house’, which feels entirely justified once you’ve tried them.
You can order them grilled, fried, breaded, wrapped in jamón serrano (cured ham) or cooked al Montilla Moriles (in a sherry-style wine sauce from Cordoba province).
Each preparation lets the artichoke shine whilst adding its own twist.
Malaga kid goat and other traditional specialities
The other headline act is chivo lechal malagueño – that’s local kid goat, served either with garlic or roasted with proper homemade chips. It requires little more than good olive oil and sea salt, as the meat speaks for itself.
For those after seafood, there’s plenty of pescaíto frito (Andalusian-style small fried fish), including boquerones (fresh anchovies) served in traditional bunches, plus cod, hake, monkfish and red mullet prepared various ways.
Don’t skip the gazpachuelo, a warm Malaga soup made with fish, prawns, potatoes, and eggs that’s comfort in a bowl, or the ajoblanco (cold almond and garlic soup) when it’s available.
Meat lovers can choose from entrecote, solomillo (sirloin), Iberian pork, or a flamenquín (breaded, rolled pork) so enormous that it fills the serving tray. Generous portions are rather the point here.
The wine list sticks to Spanish classics, such as Ribera del Duero, Rioja, some Rueda whites and local Sierras de Málaga options.
For pudding, the leche frita (fried milk custard squares) with nougat ice cream has a devoted following, while the rice pudding and coconut pudding also hold their own.
Tip: Book ahead, because tables fill up a week in advance. Sometimes, however, small groups or solo visitors can usually grab a spot at the bar for tapas.
The Malaga Guru team comprises individuals of diverse ages and backgrounds who share a common bond – a deep affection for the city of Malaga, its rich culture, and its warm-hearted inhabitants!